{"id":178044,"date":"2026-08-13T11:12:23","date_gmt":"2026-08-13T11:12:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/?p=178044"},"modified":"2026-08-13T11:12:23","modified_gmt":"2026-08-13T11:12:23","slug":"exposure-triangle-explained-aperture-shutter-speed-iso","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/exposure-triangle-explained-aperture-shutter-speed-iso\/%20","title":{"rendered":"Exposure Triangle Explained: Aperture, Shutter Speed &amp; ISO"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><script type=\"application\/ld+json\"><span data-mce-type=\"bookmark\" style=\"display: inline-block;width: 0px;overflow: hidden;line-height: 0\" class=\"mce_SELRES_start\">\ufeff<\/span>\n{\n  \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n  \"@type\": \"Article\",\n  \"headline\": \"The Exposure Triangle Explained: Why Every Camera Setting Is Just Filling a Glass\",\n  \"description\": \"Aperture, shutter speed and ISO explained using a pint glass and a tap \u2014 a plain-English guide to the exposure triangle for anyone who's ever felt lost in camera settings.\",\n  \"author\": {\n    \"@type\": \"Person\",\n    \"name\": \"Ade Wilson\"\n  },\n  \"publisher\": {\n    \"@type\": \"Organization\",\n    \"name\": \"McFade Photography\",\n    \"url\": \"https:\/\/mcfade.co.uk\"\n  },\n  \"datePublished\": \"2026-08-13\",\n  \"mainEntityOfPage\": \"https:\/\/mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/exposure-triangle-explained-filling-a-glass\"\n}\n<\/script><\/p>\n<p><script type=\"application\/ld+json\">\n{\n  \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n  \"@type\": \"FAQPage\",\n  \"mainEntity\": [\n    {\n      \"@type\": \"Question\",\n      \"name\": \"What is the exposure triangle in photography?\",\n      \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n        \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n        \"text\": \"The exposure triangle is the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO \u2014 the three camera settings that together control how bright or dark a photo turns out. Change one and you usually need to adjust one of the others to keep the same exposure.\"\n      }\n    },\n    {\n      \"@type\": \"Question\",\n      \"name\": \"What should I set first in the exposure triangle?\",\n      \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n        \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n        \"text\": \"Start with whichever setting matters most for the shot. If you want a blurred background, set your aperture first. If you're freezing or blurring motion, set your shutter speed first. If neither matters, start with a low ISO and adjust the other two around it.\"\n      }\n    },\n    {\n      \"@type\": \"Question\",\n      \"name\": \"Is the exposure triangle still relevant with modern cameras?\",\n      \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n        \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n        \"text\": \"Yes. Auto modes and in-camera metering have made it easier to get a correct exposure without thinking about it, but the underlying relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO hasn't changed. Understanding it is still what lets you make creative decisions instead of just accepting what the camera picks.\"\n      }\n    },\n    {\n      \"@type\": \"Question\",\n      \"name\": \"Can pointing a camera at the sun damage the sensor?\",\n      \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n        \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n        \"text\": \"Yes, for both DSLR and mirrorless cameras, though the risk works differently for each. On a mirrorless camera the sensor is exposed to full sunlight the whole time you're composing the shot, not just when you press the shutter. On a DSLR the mirror protects the sensor most of the time, but the shutter curtain, mirror box, and even the lens iris can still suffer heat damage, especially with a long telephoto lens pointed at the sun for an extended period.\"\n      }\n    },\n    {\n      \"@type\": \"Question\",\n      \"name\": \"What does a 15-stop ND filter actually do?\",\n      \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n        \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n        \"text\": \"Each 'stop' halves the amount of light getting through. A 15-stop filter cuts the light down by roughly 32,000 times, since it's a doubling repeated 15 times over. That's dark enough to shoot a multi-minute exposure in bright daylight, or to photograph the sun directly without the sensor taking the full force of it.\"\n      }\n    }\n  ]\n}\n<\/script><\/p>\n<div class=\"ast-oembed-container \" style=\"height: 100%;\"><iframe title=\"Why f\/16 Lets In Less Light Than f\/2.8 (Finally Explained)\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Dr2FNJb6ig8?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/div>\n<h1>Exposure Explained: Why Every Camera Setting Is Just Filling a Glass<\/h1>\n<p>The exposure triangle is the relationship between three camera settings \u2014 aperture, shutter speed and ISO \u2014 that together decide how bright or dark a photo comes out. Get your head around it once, properly, and every camera you ever pick up makes sense.<\/p>\n<h2>Quick answer: what is the exposure triangle?<\/h2>\n<figure id=\"attachment_178075\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-178075\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-178075 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Gemini_Generated_Image_lqm1jalqm1jalqm1.jpg\" alt=\"A comprehensive infographic explaining the photography exposure triangle using the analogy of a water faucet filling a glass. It shows aperture as the tap&apos;s flow rate (f\/2.8 vs. f\/16), shutter speed as the duration (1\/1000s vs. 1s), and ISO as the container size (ISO 100 jug vs. ISO 3200 shot glass). The final panel demonstrates how different combinations achieve identical perfect exposure while affecting bokeh, motion blur, and grain.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"545\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-178075\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A complete visual guide to the exposure triangle. Use this chart to quickly reference how Aperture (the flow), Shutter Speed (the time), and ISO (the glass size) interact to control your photo&#8217;s brightness and creative look.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Think of taking a photo as filling a glass with water. The &#8220;correct exposure&#8221; is just enough water to fill whatever glass you&#8217;ve got \u2014 no more, no less. There are only two things that decide how fast the glass fills: how wide you open the tap, and how long you leave it running. Photography works exactly the same way, except the &#8220;water&#8221; is light and the &#8220;glass&#8221; is your camera&#8217;s sensitivity to it:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Aperture<\/strong> is how wide you open the tap<\/li>\n<li><strong>Shutter speed<\/strong> is how long you leave the tap running<\/li>\n<li><strong>ISO<\/strong> is the size of the glass you&#8217;re filling<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Change any one of the three and you&#8217;ll need to adjust one of the others to keep the same exposure \u2014 that&#8217;s the whole &#8220;triangle&#8221; part. The rest of this post walks through each one properly, then gets into a real example: why pointing an expensive lens at the sun during an eclipse is riskier than most people think.<\/p>\n<h2>What is exposure in photography?<\/h2>\n<p>Exposure is simply the amount of light that reaches your camera&#8217;s sensor. Too much light and the photo washes out white. Too little and it comes out dark and murky. The right amount \u2014 whatever that happens to be for the scene in front of you \u2014 is a &#8220;correct exposure.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>With a glass of water, the correct amount is whatever fills the glass. A pint glass needs a pint. A half-pint glass needs half a pint. Neither is more &#8220;correct&#8221; than the other \u2014 they&#8217;re just different sizes doing the same job. Exposure works the same way: there&#8217;s no universal number, just the right amount of light for the sensor you&#8217;re filling.<\/p>\n<h2>How does aperture control light like a tap?<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_178078\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-178078\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-178078 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Gemini_Generated_Image_eevorweevorweevo.jpg\" alt=\"A detailed technical diagram illustrating camera aperture using the analogy of a water faucet. It contrasts a &apos;Wide Aperture (f\/2.8)&apos; faucet (left), labeled &apos;Large Hole, Lots of Light Flow&apos;, with a &apos;Narrow Aperture (f\/16)&apos; faucet (right), labeled &apos;Small Hole, Little Light Flow&apos;. Below each, simple camera lens cross-sections and icons show how a large aperture blurs backgrounds (f\/2.8) and a small aperture keeps everything sharp (f\/16). The diagram links f-stop numbers to light flow, aperture size, and depth of field.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"545\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-178078\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Understanding Aperture (the Tap): A wide opening like f\/2.8 (left) lets light gush in and blurs the background. A tiny opening like f\/16 (right) restricts the flow and keeps the entire scene sharp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Aperture is the size of the opening in your lens that light passes through, and it&#8217;s measured in f-stops \u2014 f\/2.8, f\/5.6, f\/11, and so on. A wide aperture (a low number like f\/2.8) is like turning the tap on full: light gushes through fast. A narrow aperture (a high number like f\/16) is like barely cracking the tap open: light trickles through slowly.<\/p>\n<p>Confusingly, the numbers work backwards from what you&#8217;d expect \u2014 the smaller the f-number, the bigger the hole. Here&#8217;s the range you&#8217;ll come across, roughly cheapest and smallest to most expensive and widest:<\/p>\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<th>F-stop<\/th>\n<th>Tap equivalent<\/th>\n<th>Typical use<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>f\/1.4 \u2013 f\/2<\/td>\n<td>Tap fully open<\/td>\n<td>Low light, blurred backgrounds<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>f\/2.8<\/td>\n<td>Tap most of the way open<\/td>\n<td>Widest setting on most zoom lenses<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>f\/4 \u2013 f\/5.6<\/td>\n<td>Moderate flow<\/td>\n<td>General use, portraits<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>f\/8<\/td>\n<td>Moderate-to-narrow flow<\/td>\n<td>Good all-rounder, group shots<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>f\/11 \u2013 f\/16<\/td>\n<td>Tap barely open<\/td>\n<td>Landscapes, everything sharp<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>Each full stop down the scale lets in half as much light as the one before it \u2014 so f\/4 lets in half as much light as f\/2.8, and so on. That&#8217;s the &#8220;doubling and halving&#8221; pattern that runs through the whole exposure triangle.<\/p>\n<h2>How does shutter speed control light like leaving a tap running?<\/h2>\n<figure id=\"attachment_178077\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-178077\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-178077 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Gemini_Generated_Image_4k7y5l4k7y5l4k7y.jpg\" alt=\"A detailed technical diagram illustrating camera shutter speed using water and time analogies, following the technical style of previous images. It contrasts &apos;Fast Shutter Speed (1\/1000s)&apos; which blurs the light stream into frozen jagged droplets and freezes motion, with &apos;Slow Shutter Speed (1s)&apos; which blurs the light stream into a smooth continuous flow and blurs motion. Stopwatch icons are labeled for &apos;Time Duration&apos;, &apos;Exposure Time&apos;, and creative outcomes (Freeze vs Blur), maintaining consistency\" width=\"1000\" height=\"545\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-178077\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Understanding Shutter Speed (the Time): Choose a fast speed like 1\/1000s (left) to use a very short duration and &#8216;freeze&#8217; motion (making water look jagged). Choose a slow speed like 1s (right) to extend the duration and deliberately blur the motion into a smooth stream.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Shutter speed is how long your camera lets light hit the sensor for. It&#8217;s exactly the same idea as leaving a tap running: the aperture sets the flow rate, and the shutter speed sets how long that flow continues.<\/p>\n<p>Most cameras range from around 1\/8000th of a second \u2014 faster than a blink \u2014 right up to 30 seconds in a normal exposure mode. If you keep the aperture (the tap width) fixed and only change how long the shutter&#8217;s open, filling the glass takes proportionally longer or shorter, just like timing how long you leave a tap running to fill a pint glass.<\/p>\n<h2>How does ISO work like the size of the glass?<\/h2>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-178079\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Gemini_Generated_Image_lyso5vlyso5vlyso.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"545\"><\/p>\n<p>This is the one that trips people up, because ISO isn&#8217;t really controlling a flow of light \u2014 it&#8217;s changing how sensitive your sensor is to the light that arrives. But the glass analogy still holds up well: think of ISO as the size of the glass you&#8217;re filling.<\/p>\n<p>A smaller glass fills faster with the same tap flow. A bigger glass takes longer. So if your camera is set to ISO 800 and takes eight seconds to get a correct exposure, doubling the ISO to 1600 is like halving the size of the glass \u2014 it&#8217;ll now take only four seconds with everything else unchanged. Halve the ISO instead, down to 400, and it&#8217;s like doubling the size of the glass \u2014 now it takes sixteen seconds.<\/p>\n<p>Like aperture and shutter speed, ISO moves in doubles and halves too. That&#8217;s not a coincidence \u2014 it&#8217;s what makes the exposure triangle a triangle. Any one setting can be adjusted to compensate for a change in either of the other two, because they&#8217;re all working in the same units of &#8220;stops.&#8221;<\/p>\n<h2>What is a &#8220;stop&#8221; in photography?<\/h2>\n<p>A stop is simply a doubling or halving of the amount of light. One stop brighter means twice as much light. One stop darker means half as much. It applies across all three settings \u2014 a wider aperture, a slower shutter speed, or a higher ISO can each add a stop of light, and they&#8217;re interchangeable for the purposes of getting the same overall exposure.<\/p>\n<h2>Can pointing a camera at the sun damage the sensor?<\/h2>\n<p>Yes \u2014 and this is worth taking seriously, whether you&#8217;re shooting a solar eclipse or just pointing a long lens at the sun out of curiosity.<\/p>\n<p>The risk works differently depending on your camera type. On a <strong>mirrorless camera<\/strong>, the sensor sits directly behind the lens with nothing shielding it \u2014 the moment you compose your shot, concentrated sunlight is hitting the sensor continuously, not just for the fraction of a second the shutter is open. That sustained exposure is what puts mirrorless sensors most at risk.<\/p>\n<p>A <strong>DSLR<\/strong> has a mirror that bounces light up into the viewfinder for most of the time you&#8217;re composing, so the sensor itself isn&#8217;t directly exposed until the mirror flips up to take the shot. That&#8217;s a genuine layer of protection the sensor gets that a mirrorless camera doesn&#8217;t. But it isn&#8217;t a free pass \u2014 camera repair shops have documented real eclipse damage to DSLRs too, including burnt shutter curtains, scorched mirror boxes, and heat-damaged lens iris blades, particularly with longer telephoto lenses that concentrate more heat and light onto a smaller area. So the DSLR&#8217;s mirror reduces the risk to the sensor specifically, but the camera as a whole is still vulnerable.<\/p>\n<p>The practical answer for either camera type is the same: don&#8217;t point an unfiltered lens at the sun for any length of time, and definitely don&#8217;t use Live View on a DSLR while doing it, since that flips the mirror up and exposes the sensor exactly the way a mirrorless camera is exposed the whole time.<\/p>\n<h2>How do you photograph the sun safely?<\/h2>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-178076\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Gemini_Generated_Image_jsr0fejsr0fejsr0.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"545\"><\/p>\n<p>The tool for this is a neutral density (ND) filter \u2014 a darkened piece of glass that screws onto the front of the lens and cuts down the amount of light reaching the sensor, without changing its colour. For something as bright as the sun, you need a lot of stops.<\/p>\n<p>Remember, each stop is a doubling. A 15-stop ND filter is fifteen doublings stacked on top of each other, which works out to roughly 32,000 times less light getting through \u2014 similar logic to boiling a kettle down to a single drop. That&#8217;s dark enough to shoot a multi-minute exposure on a bright, sunny day, or to point a lens at the sun without it taking the full, unfiltered force of that light. I used a 15-stop filter for exactly this reason during a recent solar eclipse shoot, having tested a 10-stop filter first and still finding the sun uncomfortably bright through the viewfinder.<\/p>\n<p>For more on how different strength filters behave and when to reach for each one, my <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/photography-filters-the-ultimate-guide-to-camera-lens-filters\/\" target=\"_blank\">full guide to camera lens filters<\/a> covers ND, polarising, and graduated filters in more depth.<\/p>\n<h2>Putting it all together: filling the same glass three different ways<\/h2>\n<p>Because aperture, shutter speed and ISO all move in the same stops, there are hundreds of different combinations that produce an identical exposure \u2014 you&#8217;re just choosing which &#8220;tap&#8221; to adjust. Here&#8217;s the same result achieved three different ways:<\/p>\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<th>Aperture<\/th>\n<th>Shutter speed<\/th>\n<th>ISO<\/th>\n<th>Result<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>f\/2.8<\/td>\n<td>1\/1000s<\/td>\n<td>400<\/td>\n<td>Fast tap, short time, big glass<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>f\/8<\/td>\n<td>1\/125s<\/td>\n<td>400<\/td>\n<td>Slower tap, longer time, same glass<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>f\/8<\/td>\n<td>1\/125s<\/td>\n<td>1600<\/td>\n<td>Same tap and time, smaller glass \u2014 brighter result<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>Which combination you pick isn&#8217;t about right or wrong \u2014 it&#8217;s about what else you want the photo to do. A wide aperture blurs the background. A slow shutter speed blurs motion. A high ISO gets you a usable shot in low light at the cost of some graininess. The exposure triangle doesn&#8217;t tell you which trade-off to make \u2014 it just tells you how the three settings relate to each other once you&#8217;ve decided.<\/p>\n<p>If you&#8217;re just starting to get your head around which setting to reach for in which situation, my <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/beginner-photography-tips-your-first-steps-to-great-photos\/\" target=\"_blank\">beginner photography tips guide<\/a> walks through practical starting points for aperture, shutter speed and ISO in everyday shooting.<\/p>\n<hr style=\"margin: 40px 0 30px 0;border: none;border-top: 1px solid #ddd\">\n<h2>FAQ<\/h2>\n<h3>What is the exposure triangle in photography?<\/h3>\n<p>The exposure triangle is the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO \u2014 the three camera settings that together control how bright or dark a photo turns out. Change one and you usually need to adjust one of the others to keep the same exposure.<\/p>\n<h3>What should I set first in the exposure triangle?<\/h3>\n<p>Start with whichever setting matters most for the shot. If you want a blurred background, set your aperture first. If you&#8217;re freezing or blurring motion, set your shutter speed first. If neither matters, start with a low ISO and adjust the other two around it.<\/p>\n<h3>Is the exposure triangle still relevant with modern cameras?<\/h3>\n<p>Yes. Auto modes and in-camera metering have made it easier to get a correct exposure without thinking about it, but the underlying relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO hasn&#8217;t changed. Understanding it is still what lets you make creative decisions instead of just accepting what the camera picks.<\/p>\n<h3>Can pointing a camera at the sun damage the sensor?<\/h3>\n<p>Yes, for both DSLR and mirrorless cameras, though the risk works differently for each. Mirrorless sensors are exposed continuously while composing; DSLR sensors are shielded by the mirror most of the time, but the shutter curtain, mirror box, and lens iris can still take heat damage, especially with a long telephoto lens.<\/p>\n<h3>What does a 15-stop ND filter actually do?<\/h3>\n<p>Each stop halves the light getting through. A 15-stop filter cuts light by roughly 32,000 times \u2014 dark enough for a multi-minute exposure in bright daylight, or for pointing a lens at the sun without the sensor taking the full force of it.<\/p>\n<p>Cheers,<br \/>\nAde<\/p>\n<hr style=\"margin: 40px 0 30px 0;border: none;border-top: 1px solid #ddd\">\n<h2>Related Reading<\/h2>\n<div style=\"display: flex;gap: 20px;flex-wrap: wrap;margin: 20px 0 30px 0\">\n<div style=\"width: 280px\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/beginner-photography-tips-your-first-steps-to-great-photos\/\" target=\"_blank\"><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" style=\"width: 100%;height: 180px;object-fit: cover;border-radius: 4px;display: block\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/0189-Leeds-at-Night-2024_09_29-by-McFade-2.jpg\" alt=\"Beginner Photography Tips: Your First Steps to Great Photos\"><br \/>\n<\/a><br \/>\n<a style=\"font-weight: bold;text-decoration: none;color: inherit;display: block;margin: 10px 0 0 0\" href=\"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/beginner-photography-tips-your-first-steps-to-great-photos\/\" target=\"_blank\">Beginner Photography Tips: Your First Steps to Great Photos<\/a><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 280px\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/photography-filters-the-ultimate-guide-to-camera-lens-filters\/\" target=\"_blank\"><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" style=\"width: 100%;height: 180px;object-fit: cover;border-radius: 4px;display: block\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/DALL\u00b7E-2023-10-30-13.29.54-Photo-of-a-Polariser-filter-a-round-piece-of-glass-typically-with-a-metal-frame-reflecting-a-blue-sky-with-clouds.jpg\" alt=\"Photography Filters: The Ultimate Guide to Camera Lens Filters\"><br \/>\n<\/a><br \/>\n<a style=\"font-weight: bold;text-decoration: none;color: inherit;display: block;margin: 10px 0 0 0\" href=\"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/photography-filters-the-ultimate-guide-to-camera-lens-filters\/\" target=\"_blank\">Photography Filters: The Ultimate Guide to Camera Lens Filters<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<style>\r\n.lwrp.link-whisper-related-posts{\r\n            \r\n            margin-top: 40px;\nmargin-bottom: 30px;\r\n        }\r\n        .lwrp .lwrp-title{\r\n            \r\n            \r\n        }.lwrp .lwrp-description{\r\n            \r\n            \r\n\r\n        }\r\n        .lwrp .lwrp-list-container{\r\n        }\r\n        .lwrp .lwrp-list-multi-container{\r\n            display: flex;\r\n        }\r\n        .lwrp .lwrp-list-double{\r\n            width: 48%;\r\n        }\r\n        .lwrp .lwrp-list-triple{\r\n            width: 32%;\r\n        }\r\n        .lwrp .lwrp-list-row-container{\r\n            display: flex;\r\n            justify-content: space-between;\r\n        }\r\n        .lwrp .lwrp-list-row-container .lwrp-list-item{\r\n            width: 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Get your head around it once, properly, and every camera you ever pick up makes sense. 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Get your head around it once, properly, and every camera you ever pick up makes sense.&hellip;","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/178044","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=178044"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/178044\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":178153,"href":"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/178044\/revisions\/178153"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/178083"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=178044"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=178044"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mcfade.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=178044"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}